How to set-up a hatchling python tub.
Click-clack tub set-up.
Hatchling python tub set-up
Their are three main things a hatchling python needs in a tub set-up.
1. A water bowl big enough for the python to fully submerge in.
2. A hide box.
3. Sticks to climb on for exercise.
The tub it's self, should be long enough for the Python to get away from the heated end. Sistema 7L tubs are a good size for the average hatchling Python, 355mm Long x 235mm Wide x 120mm High. Plus they have clips on all four sides to ensure your Python isn't going to escape.
For hatchlings, the recommended bedding to use is paper towel/newspaper etc. Loose substrate bedding is not recommended, hatchlings being so small can easily die from consuming a peace of substrate that's to big.
Before I start, I just want to let you know. It's not cruel to put them in a small space, like a tub. small pythons do not like big open spaces. If you give them a big open space, they will stress out thinking something's about to eat them, they wont use most of the space you give them and they might stop eating. They are comfortable in small tight places, because there's little chance of a predator eating them.
HIDE BOX
It doesn't really mater what you use for a hide box, as long as they can snugly fit inside it. A common type of hide box for hatchlings, is toilet rolls or paper towel rolls (as long as there's no scent added to the them). Another is a light bulb box, or the bottom of a plastic pot cut off with a hole cut in the side. The plastic pot will obviously last longer, as all you have to do to clean it, is wipe it down. While the rolls and boxes will need to be thrown out and replaced.
If you're using one hide box, place it on the heated end of the tub. Because hatchlings are so scared of everything, they don't like to come out of their hiding spot, unless it's for something important. So if the hide is on the heated end, then when they are digesting a meal, they don't have to feel vulnerable being out in the open, they can simply hide in their box, which is placed at the perfect temperature. Otherwise you can simply use two hides, placed at both the hot and cold end of the tub.
WATER
It is important that the water bowl is big enough for the hatchling to fully submerge in. When the snake comes into shed, if there's not enough humidity in the tub, the snake will submerge in the water bowl to help the shed come off better. If the snake can't get this extra humidity during the shedding period, then the shed won't come off properly and the snake could end up with problems like, retained eye caps, which if left unattended, with each shed the caps will build up until it's not possible to get them all off and the snake could end up blind.
1. A water bowl big enough for the python to fully submerge in.
2. A hide box.
3. Sticks to climb on for exercise.
The tub it's self, should be long enough for the Python to get away from the heated end. Sistema 7L tubs are a good size for the average hatchling Python, 355mm Long x 235mm Wide x 120mm High. Plus they have clips on all four sides to ensure your Python isn't going to escape.
For hatchlings, the recommended bedding to use is paper towel/newspaper etc. Loose substrate bedding is not recommended, hatchlings being so small can easily die from consuming a peace of substrate that's to big.
Before I start, I just want to let you know. It's not cruel to put them in a small space, like a tub. small pythons do not like big open spaces. If you give them a big open space, they will stress out thinking something's about to eat them, they wont use most of the space you give them and they might stop eating. They are comfortable in small tight places, because there's little chance of a predator eating them.
HIDE BOX
It doesn't really mater what you use for a hide box, as long as they can snugly fit inside it. A common type of hide box for hatchlings, is toilet rolls or paper towel rolls (as long as there's no scent added to the them). Another is a light bulb box, or the bottom of a plastic pot cut off with a hole cut in the side. The plastic pot will obviously last longer, as all you have to do to clean it, is wipe it down. While the rolls and boxes will need to be thrown out and replaced.
If you're using one hide box, place it on the heated end of the tub. Because hatchlings are so scared of everything, they don't like to come out of their hiding spot, unless it's for something important. So if the hide is on the heated end, then when they are digesting a meal, they don't have to feel vulnerable being out in the open, they can simply hide in their box, which is placed at the perfect temperature. Otherwise you can simply use two hides, placed at both the hot and cold end of the tub.
WATER
It is important that the water bowl is big enough for the hatchling to fully submerge in. When the snake comes into shed, if there's not enough humidity in the tub, the snake will submerge in the water bowl to help the shed come off better. If the snake can't get this extra humidity during the shedding period, then the shed won't come off properly and the snake could end up with problems like, retained eye caps, which if left unattended, with each shed the caps will build up until it's not possible to get them all off and the snake could end up blind.
Python soaking in water bowl to assist shedding.
A big water bowl also helps to add humidity to the air.
Also, the water will need to be changed once a week at the latest. Snakes won't drink stagnant water.
STICKS
It is also important to give the python something to climb on. Sticks do more then just give them exercise. When feeding, the snake will use these sticks to help push the food item down to its stomach. Most pythons are highly arboreal and use these sticks quite regularly.
I use tomato stakes cut to size, because they're made of plastic (so to clean them, all I have to do is wipe them down) and they have grooves on them, which helps the snake grip the stick easier.
Bamboo is also a good stick to use. Just make sure not to use split peace's of bamboo, your python could cut itself.
HEATING
The best way to heat a tub, is either heat cord or a heat mat, ALWAYS USE A THERMOSTAT!!!. You can very easily melt through the tub, which can badly burn or kill your snake, if you don't control the heating element with a thermostat.
You want the heating element to be placed under the tub, at one end of the tub. This ensures the snake can get away from the heat if it gets to hot and pick the perfect temperature for itself.
Every species is different, but the average hot end temperature for a hatchling python is between 29-34 degrees. Within this temperature range, the snakes metabolism is raised, which helps the snake digest its food item quickly.
It is important not to have the tub to hot or to cold.
If the tub is to hot for the snake, then the heat causes the food item inside the snake, to rot faster then the snake can digest it, which could kill the snake.
If the tub is to cold for the snake, then the snakes metabolism is lowered, stopping the snake from digesting the food item quick enough, meaning the food item rots before it's fully digested, which could kill the snake.
Hatchlings are a lot more sensitive then adults, which unfortunately means they can die easier. But if you don't have the attitude of "It'll be right" or "I know better then the experts" and you follow the information they give you, then you wont have a problem and your snake with thrive.
AIR HOLES
Tub air hole set-up
Air holes would have to be the most important part of keeping your python alive.
But if you have too many air holes, then the tub doesn't hold enough humidity and the pythons skin will dry out, causing bad sheds.
But if you don't have enough air holes, then the tub holds too much humidity, causing the tub to constantly fog up, mould to grow, not enough air flow (resulting in the tub being full of old stagnant air), execs Co2 gas and other problems.
*note* when making these holes, use a soldering iron. This is because the edges of the holes will turn out rounded and smooth. If you use a drill, they will be sharp and the python will push on the holes and cut it's nose. *note*
Take note of the holes in this tub.
The holes on the front are just below midway of the tub and the holes at the back are high up and on both the back wall and both side walls (but not all the way along the back wall).
What this does is help air exchange by using rising heat.
This tub is air tight (except for the air holes added) and the heating element is at the back of the tub (where the higher lot of holes are), as the heat rises to the top of the tub, it exits through the holes at the top of the tub, when it does that, it sucks fresh air in through the lower holes at the front (cool end of the tub).
Because Co2 gas drops to the bottom of the tub, when fresh air is sucked in through the lower front holes, it stirs up the low sitting Co2 gas and pushes it to the top of the tub and out the back higher holes.
The reason why the front holes are not at the very bottom of the tub, is to allow room for loose substrate (if you choose to use it when the python gets a bit bigger), also to stop any spilt water from leaking out the holes.
The reason why the holes on the back don't go all the way across, is because I found if I had to many more holes then this, then the tub would let too much humidity escape.
The reason why there are holes on the side of the tub, is to allow for tubs that will be housed in a rack system, because there is normally less ventilation at the back of most rack set-ups, it helps when the tubs can ventilate from the sides where more air will be passing by.
I used to use tubs with holes that go all the way around the top part of the tub, but I changed to this method, because I found the pythons were having bad sheds (meaning the tub was loosing to much humidity) and to help the exchange of Co2 gas out of the tub.
You may have to adjust the amount of holes for the area you live. eg. If you live in Queensland, you would need more holes, to allow for the extra heat and humidity. If you live in Victoria, you may need less holes to hold more heat (but I do think this amount of holes will be just fine). I live in NSW and this amount of holes works perfectly for my area.
VERY IMPORTANT!!!
When you bring a new python home for the first time. Set it up in it's click-clack, place the click-clack in a low-traffic area (not in a hallway or main room where people are going to be constantly walking by or trying to get a better look at it) and LEAVE IT ALONE for one full week. Some people like to leave them for 2 weeks, But one week is all that's needed.
Hatchlings stress out like crazy, one of the main killers of hatchlings is stress. The reason why we leave them alone for a week, is it gives them plenty of time to get comfortable with their new environment. The last thing they need when they move to a new home, is people constantly pulling them out and playing with them. All they want to do is hide.
I can't stress enough how important it is to leave them alone for the first week. LET THEM HIDE!!!
But if you have too many air holes, then the tub doesn't hold enough humidity and the pythons skin will dry out, causing bad sheds.
But if you don't have enough air holes, then the tub holds too much humidity, causing the tub to constantly fog up, mould to grow, not enough air flow (resulting in the tub being full of old stagnant air), execs Co2 gas and other problems.
*note* when making these holes, use a soldering iron. This is because the edges of the holes will turn out rounded and smooth. If you use a drill, they will be sharp and the python will push on the holes and cut it's nose. *note*
Take note of the holes in this tub.
The holes on the front are just below midway of the tub and the holes at the back are high up and on both the back wall and both side walls (but not all the way along the back wall).
What this does is help air exchange by using rising heat.
This tub is air tight (except for the air holes added) and the heating element is at the back of the tub (where the higher lot of holes are), as the heat rises to the top of the tub, it exits through the holes at the top of the tub, when it does that, it sucks fresh air in through the lower holes at the front (cool end of the tub).
Because Co2 gas drops to the bottom of the tub, when fresh air is sucked in through the lower front holes, it stirs up the low sitting Co2 gas and pushes it to the top of the tub and out the back higher holes.
The reason why the front holes are not at the very bottom of the tub, is to allow room for loose substrate (if you choose to use it when the python gets a bit bigger), also to stop any spilt water from leaking out the holes.
The reason why the holes on the back don't go all the way across, is because I found if I had to many more holes then this, then the tub would let too much humidity escape.
The reason why there are holes on the side of the tub, is to allow for tubs that will be housed in a rack system, because there is normally less ventilation at the back of most rack set-ups, it helps when the tubs can ventilate from the sides where more air will be passing by.
I used to use tubs with holes that go all the way around the top part of the tub, but I changed to this method, because I found the pythons were having bad sheds (meaning the tub was loosing to much humidity) and to help the exchange of Co2 gas out of the tub.
You may have to adjust the amount of holes for the area you live. eg. If you live in Queensland, you would need more holes, to allow for the extra heat and humidity. If you live in Victoria, you may need less holes to hold more heat (but I do think this amount of holes will be just fine). I live in NSW and this amount of holes works perfectly for my area.
VERY IMPORTANT!!!
When you bring a new python home for the first time. Set it up in it's click-clack, place the click-clack in a low-traffic area (not in a hallway or main room where people are going to be constantly walking by or trying to get a better look at it) and LEAVE IT ALONE for one full week. Some people like to leave them for 2 weeks, But one week is all that's needed.
Hatchlings stress out like crazy, one of the main killers of hatchlings is stress. The reason why we leave them alone for a week, is it gives them plenty of time to get comfortable with their new environment. The last thing they need when they move to a new home, is people constantly pulling them out and playing with them. All they want to do is hide.
I can't stress enough how important it is to leave them alone for the first week. LET THEM HIDE!!!