Incubation
Timber incubator, heated with two 80 watt heat cords.
There are quite a few different methods for incubating eggs.
I'm going to show you what has been successful for me and why.
Now, you can't incubate anything without an incubator.
So first up, I'm going to show you what I use for an incubator.
This is my home made, double walled, timber incubator. I've used converted fridge incubators, foam incubators and purchased incubators in the past. This double walled timber incubator, is by far the best working incubator I've ever had.
It's outside detentions are 1000mm Long x 700mm Deep x 900mm High.
It's inside wall is 12mm plywood, then 16mm foam and 16mm white melamine as the outside wall.
It's heated with two 80 watt heat cords.
And powered by a Microclimate, model B1, proportional thermostat.
Tested over a period of 2 months, it only fluctuated by 0.2 degrees over that 2 month period, both the top and bottom shelves stayed at the exact same temperature as each other, without a fan. Every wall (except the two doors) is covered with heat cord.
The reason why I decided to make a timber incubator, is because timber insulates much better then the plastic on a fridge.
If you're going to make an incubator, I would highly recommend using heat cord as your heating element. It doesn't blow (like heat lights), it can cover a greater area with even levels of heat and it can heat up and cool down very quickly.
Also, make sure you don't place the tubs to close to the heat cord. You want the tubs to be heated by the "soft" heat from the cord (found further away from the cord), not the harsh heat that's coming directly off the cord (found very close to the cord).
I'm going to show you what has been successful for me and why.
Now, you can't incubate anything without an incubator.
So first up, I'm going to show you what I use for an incubator.
This is my home made, double walled, timber incubator. I've used converted fridge incubators, foam incubators and purchased incubators in the past. This double walled timber incubator, is by far the best working incubator I've ever had.
It's outside detentions are 1000mm Long x 700mm Deep x 900mm High.
It's inside wall is 12mm plywood, then 16mm foam and 16mm white melamine as the outside wall.
It's heated with two 80 watt heat cords.
And powered by a Microclimate, model B1, proportional thermostat.
Tested over a period of 2 months, it only fluctuated by 0.2 degrees over that 2 month period, both the top and bottom shelves stayed at the exact same temperature as each other, without a fan. Every wall (except the two doors) is covered with heat cord.
The reason why I decided to make a timber incubator, is because timber insulates much better then the plastic on a fridge.
If you're going to make an incubator, I would highly recommend using heat cord as your heating element. It doesn't blow (like heat lights), it can cover a greater area with even levels of heat and it can heat up and cool down very quickly.
Also, make sure you don't place the tubs to close to the heat cord. You want the tubs to be heated by the "soft" heat from the cord (found further away from the cord), not the harsh heat that's coming directly off the cord (found very close to the cord).
Incubation Tubs
Here are two types of incubation tubs I use and have had great success with.
I use the 100% water method.
This method involves hovering the eggs on a grate above either, water or very wet substrate.
Using this method with substrate, helps prevent water from splashing up onto the eggs when moving the tubs.
This would have to be the safest method of incubating eggs, in my opinion.
Here's my reasons why.
With the traditional incubation method, where you place the eggs directly into damp substrate. The eggs are in direct contact with the water, if you have mixed the substrate with to much water (which is very common), then the eggs will absorb to much water and the reptiles will drown in their eggs.
If you don't mix the substrate with enough water (also very common), then the eggs won't absorb enough water and could die early, or make it the full length of incubation, but the egg shell will be to dry and hard, meaning the reptile won't be able to cut its way out of the egg and will die.
Using the 100% water method, the eggs are suspended over the water or very wet substrate and not in direct contact with it. Instead the eggs get the moisture they need from the humidity in the air. This way the eggs absorb just the right amount of moisture they need without over or under doing it.
The tubs must be air tight for this method.
If your going to have air holes in the tubs, then you need to cover them with "Gladwrap". This allows air exchange into the tubs (so you don't have to open the tubs as often), but doesn't allow moisture to leave the tubs.
I use the 100% water method.
This method involves hovering the eggs on a grate above either, water or very wet substrate.
Using this method with substrate, helps prevent water from splashing up onto the eggs when moving the tubs.
This would have to be the safest method of incubating eggs, in my opinion.
Here's my reasons why.
With the traditional incubation method, where you place the eggs directly into damp substrate. The eggs are in direct contact with the water, if you have mixed the substrate with to much water (which is very common), then the eggs will absorb to much water and the reptiles will drown in their eggs.
If you don't mix the substrate with enough water (also very common), then the eggs won't absorb enough water and could die early, or make it the full length of incubation, but the egg shell will be to dry and hard, meaning the reptile won't be able to cut its way out of the egg and will die.
Using the 100% water method, the eggs are suspended over the water or very wet substrate and not in direct contact with it. Instead the eggs get the moisture they need from the humidity in the air. This way the eggs absorb just the right amount of moisture they need without over or under doing it.
The tubs must be air tight for this method.
If your going to have air holes in the tubs, then you need to cover them with "Gladwrap". This allows air exchange into the tubs (so you don't have to open the tubs as often), but doesn't allow moisture to leave the tubs.
Tub Style One
Tub style one.
This is the first style of tub I use.
I fill the bottom with wet vermiculite or perlite, I place the grate on top, sit the eggs on the grate, cover the top with Gladwrap, then place the lid on top of the Gralwrap.
As you can see, this lid has a cap on top that can be opened or closed. I open this cap to allow air exchange, the Gladwrap prevents any moisture from escaping, But allows the exchange of oxygen.
I fill the bottom with wet vermiculite or perlite, I place the grate on top, sit the eggs on the grate, cover the top with Gladwrap, then place the lid on top of the Gralwrap.
As you can see, this lid has a cap on top that can be opened or closed. I open this cap to allow air exchange, the Gladwrap prevents any moisture from escaping, But allows the exchange of oxygen.
Close up of the grate.
This style of tub can be bought at places like Coles or Woolworths.
Tub Style Two
Tub style two.
This is the second style of tub I use.
This style of tub is very similar to the first style, but this is actually made for reptile incubation.
It has no holes in the lid, so if you prefer holes, then you're going to have to add them.
It also has little dividers that can be moved around, so you can incubate the eggs individually or stuck together in a clump.
This style of tub is very similar to the first style, but this is actually made for reptile incubation.
It has no holes in the lid, so if you prefer holes, then you're going to have to add them.
It also has little dividers that can be moved around, so you can incubate the eggs individually or stuck together in a clump.
Example of grate and substrate instead of just water.
Also the grate is hovering halfway up the tub.
This gap between the grate and water level, allows an area for Co2 gas (expelled from the eggs) to drop too. This allows the eggs to sit in fresher oxygen, for a longer period of time.
Once a week, I will air out the tubs, to remove any Co2 gas and replace it with fresh oxygen.
In the last two weeks of incubation, the eggs are releasing moisture (this causes the eggs to dimple), causing every wall in the tub, to become dripping wet. At this point, I air out the tubs and wipe off the excess moisture twice a week untill the eggs hatch.
With this style of tub, you can choose to only have water in the bottom, or you can have very wet substrate in the bottom instead.
Having wet substrate in the bottom is probably a safer option, because when you move the tub, you wont run the risk of water splashing on the eggs.
This gap between the grate and water level, allows an area for Co2 gas (expelled from the eggs) to drop too. This allows the eggs to sit in fresher oxygen, for a longer period of time.
Once a week, I will air out the tubs, to remove any Co2 gas and replace it with fresh oxygen.
In the last two weeks of incubation, the eggs are releasing moisture (this causes the eggs to dimple), causing every wall in the tub, to become dripping wet. At this point, I air out the tubs and wipe off the excess moisture twice a week untill the eggs hatch.
With this style of tub, you can choose to only have water in the bottom, or you can have very wet substrate in the bottom instead.
Having wet substrate in the bottom is probably a safer option, because when you move the tub, you wont run the risk of water splashing on the eggs.
Example of individually set-up eggs.
The reason why I mark the top of the eggs, is in case they role when I'm moving them into the tubs and when I move the tubs later on. If a reptile egg roles, it will kill the reptile inside. So it is extremely important not to role the eggs. A pencil mark on top of the egg, will let you know if the egg has moved at all.
This is the method that works for me. Everyone has different preferences when it comes to incubation, but this is the method that works for me every time, without fail.